The Computer Hardware and Software Thread

[Kieli]

Alia: I'd take DMW's advice but only if you feel comfortable with making the switch to Mozilla. It could be that you're missing some key security updates to IE or that you have an older version (IE 5.5 or earlier) that is causing the problem. I'd do a Windows Update like aceivan did. It could be something as simple as that. However, if you're using something like Hotbar or any of that other software that contains spyware, that could also cause the problem. We've been seeing a ton of problems similar to yours here at the University of VA Health System and we've had to patch IE and XP a million times. Granted, XP Home should work far and away better than XP Pro in a networked environment but....start simple and we can work from there.

Time flies by when the Devil drives.
It's not the pace of life that concerns me, it's the sudden stop at the end.

[Grimlock72]

Alia/Kieli



I have never used mozilla myself, but it IS a stand-alone program isn't it ? I mean, you can just install it.. try the webpage and test for slowness and if it's still as slow you can easily remove mozilla, right ??



(I usually recommend Opera for such tests but the principle is the same, install a 2nd browser which can be removed if not needed later on)



ALWAYS run windows-update (need IE for that, Tools->Windows Update on it's menu) and REPEAT running it after every reboot until it lists no more critical updates.



Make sure you have a proper and working virus-scanner installed, firewall which checks outbound traffic also wouldn't hurt. Spybot Search & Destroy is a program to scan for spyware (basicly software that uses your pc for stuff that's useless for you, but usefull for some big data gathering company or such;-)



List of links;

AVG virus scan (free) www.grisoft.com/us/us_dwnl_free.php

Sygate firewall (free) smb.sygate.com/support/do...efault.htm

S&D Scanner (free) security.kolla.de/news.php?lang=en



If nothing else I would recommend you at least install and run S&D scanner, if you don't understand the output or aren't sure what to do with it... just ask over here.



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

Edited by: Grimlock72 at: 7/2/04 10:07 am

[Kieli]

Grim: I've not tried Mozilla but I assume it's a stand-alone program. Where I work, we use Ad-aware in conjunction with Spybot (my personal favourite). It has a somewhat easier to manuever graphical interface. Great for those new to computing. As far as I know, most new PCs should already come with McAfee or Norton's AV installed so I hope that's not an issue for Alia.



I can try to help to if things get a little thorny. I'm A+, Network+ and Server+ certified and I also hold an MCP (Microsoft Certified Professional).



Cheers,

Toni

Time flies by when the Devil drives.
It's not the pace of life that concerns me, it's the sudden stop at the end.

[AshWeezer]

Whenever I try to dial up on my computer, it'll like dial, it'll do the little noise and stuff when you dial up to a modem, but then after that it wont do anything and it'll say the computer you dialed did not respond, or something like that. After it says that, it'll make a beeping sound, like if you leave a phone off the hook, it'll make that sound. We have like 3 different phone lines and I plugged it in to everyone of them and it does the same thing. Would it be that my modem is bad? The other computers dial up just fine.



Sheena

[Grimlock72]

Ash,

(assuming XP btw.)



This is a bit hard to debug remotely, but try comparing all properties of your dial-up connection between a computer that works and the one that doesn't.



You can acess properties in Control Panel -> Network Connections. Rightclick on the one you use and select properties, pay special attention to the tab 'Networking'.



Also check the phone-number you use, I know it sounds obvious but it could be that your modem in that specific pc isn't compatible with the number you dial. More specificly, it could be that the modem on your end can't handle the speed the number you dial wants to talk at. That is fairly uncommon today though, since most all modems are 56k6 (the tones you hear when the phone connects are speeds 'offered' to your modem by the ISP, if it ends with a looooong tone it usually means the modem didn't hear any speed it liked). Would be wise to check the obvious, you can call your ISP's helpdesk after that. This is likely something they handle more often.



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Big Dummy]

My gf's laptop (IBM Thinkpad a22m) just died, part of the chipset fried we think, and so I'm trying to install it in my PC to a) get her information (her thesis and such is on it), and b) make use of a perfectly functioning hdd. We bought an adapter that'll allow us to install it, but I'm not very savvy about installing dual hardware, i.e. another hdd. I tried to put it on the same IDE cable as my hdd, on the second connector, and when I booted I got a message that the operating system could not be found. I figure it's the computer trying to boot from the laptop hdd.



Now, the laptop hdd, a Travelstar 20gb bit, didn't have a shunt to set the jumper pins with, but I assumed the default setting would be cable select, and assuming my hdd (a Fireball lct20) is set to master automatically, I figured I'd have no problems. Since I am, I draw the conclusion that either a) I do need a shunt, and can't do much else about it, or b) I did something else wrong.



BTW, most reference I've seen to installing a second device on the same IDE as another refers to the red end of the cable. Mine doesn't have a red in; it's black. Does that make a difference?

[Grimlock72]

Overal Travelstar stuff at: www.hitachigst.com/hdd/su...table.html



Documentation at www.hitachigst.com/tech/t...enDocument , I don't know your exact model. However I looked at a random 20Gb travelstar and it DOES have jumpers for master/slave, those are four extra pins on the main connector. It defaults to Master if there is no jumper connected.



Either connect the Travelstar to a 2nd controller on a empty cable (i.e. master on the 2nd ide controller), or set the jumper on it to slave. Assuming your own hd isn't set to 'single' but to 'master' (likely if the usual 2nd device on that cable is the cdrom)



As for the colored connectors, thats for high speed cables which have colored connectors specific for master/slave/board. If you're are all black you probably have a normal speed IDE cable, should work ok.



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Jennpurr]

ARGH!







I hope one of you can help me. Lately, I keep getting error messages when I'm playing WMP. It keeps telling me there is a problem with my sound device or that it is malfunctioning.



Is there a way to fix this? It's still giving me the error message now. I'd really like to listen to a song I just DL'ed.



Please help??



Thanks in advance,



Jen



ETA: UGH!! I got it to work finally, but then I had to restart my computer and now it won't work again!!! Keeps giving me the same message.



I don't understand this! Do I need to DL the newer version of WMP??



Well, scratch that. The version I have is 9.0. Is there a newer version then that?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Phoebe: Be vewy, vewy quiet. We're hunting demons. ~ Charmed: Season 2, "P3 H20"
Quia ego cognosco cogitationes meas, quas ego cogito super vos, dicit Jehova, cogitationes pacis, et non in malum; ut dem vobis finem et expectationem. ~ Jeremiah 29:11

Edited by: Jennpurr at: 7/11/04 8:03 pm

[Grimlock72]

Jenn,



HOW did you get it to work (prior to reboot) ?



Do you get this error on everything you try to play ? Only with mp3 or wma (specify) ?.



Try re-installing your soundcard drivers, if that doesn't fix it re-install directX (download from www.microsoft.com if needed). Re-installing WMP9 might help too, download from here.



It *seems* your error is;

Quote:

---

00D11BA: Cannot play the file because there is a problem with your sound device

---

Correct ? That one is usually driver related, see above.



P.S. Which OS are you running ?



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Big Dummy]

Grim, a little overdue, but thanks a lot for the links and advice. I was able to get all the info I needed. I still haven't attempted the thing yet, but...it went a long way towards sorting some of my confusion.



Now, for all you hardware gurus, here's a question. I'm in the planning stages of building my own machine. It'll be used mainly for recording and intensive graphics-using programs (like games and Photoshop, etc.). So, with budget in mind, I decided on an AMD AthlonXP 2800+, and a mobo with the nForce2 chipset. My dilemna is about manufacturers. Asus seems to be the favored one (at least according to the Google searches I've done), but...do any of you have experience with this brand or any other? Abit? Gigabyte? MSI? Epox?



They all seem to be the same to me, with a standard number of PCI/AGP/USB etc. slots and ports. The things I'm not sure about are

a) sufficient bus/memory/etc.

b)integrated ethernet: it's standard these days, but do I want it? What if it gets fried or something one day and that means having to replace the whole board? And if I do go integrated, what's so different about Gigabyte Ethernet vs. 10/100 Ethernet?

c) built-in firewire

d) do I need onboard RAID?



Any suggestions or help from other homebuilders would be great. I'm new to this, and I want my first system to be everything I'm dreaming of. It would be hugely disappointing to have it blow after all the work I'm going to put into it.

[justin]

Quote:

---

b)integrated ethernet: it's standard these days, but do I want it? What if it gets fried or something one day and that means having to replace the whole board? And if I do go integrated, what's so different about Gigabyte Ethernet vs. 10/100 Ethernet?

---

Surely if the onboard ethernet connection breaks you can replace it by just bying a pci ethernet card. If you mean Gigabit ethernet then this is (theoretically) 10 times faster than 100 megabit Ethernet. But unless the other parts of your network all work at this speed you won't see any improvements.

Quote:

---

d) do I need onboard RAID?

---

RAID is a way of combining groups of hard drives in order to improve speed or reliability. On a desktop machine this isn't really useful.

What other people think of me is none of my business - Ellen Degeneres

[Big Dummy]

Thanks so much for the detailed specs. It was just what I needed to do some real comparison shopping. I started, and was suddenly deluged with terms I wasn't familiar with, such as info about SATA vs. ATA, and Raid controllers, and Southbridge/Northbridge, etc. And I thought I knew at least a little something...



This info will help a lot. Thanks so much.

[Grimlock72]

BD,



You might want to read: www.tomshardware.com/moth.../20030721/ which is a review of several mainboards with nforce2 set. That site is good for reviews and technical specs, not the end-all of impartial reviews but the info is usually correct .



If possible buy at least the cpu, memory and mainboard from the same supplier. If one of those components doesn't work you can just bring back all three of them as opposed to being referred from shop to shop (blame shifting).



I see my board didn't end up as #1 on their test but thats because they have other priorities I think I liked that almost anything you need is in the box you buy, including round IDE cables (those are sooo usefull I'm amazed no-one thought of it earlier :-).



I already mentioned you do NOT want the on-board graphics version (IGP) right ?



Depending on where you live you might also want to look into a brand power-supply-unit. One which stabilizes it's output and prevents surges. PSU's are non-system specific meaning you can use them any new system you might get later (if you buy at least a 400W one) so investing in it is a good idea.

(powersurges can fry your memory modules or cpu/mainboard, not sure if your area is prone to those though)



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

Edited by: Grimlock72 at: 7/18/04 5:01 am

[Big Dummy]

Does this

Quote:

---

Oh yeah, you still need a graphics card unless you plan to buy a mainboard with a MX400 or such included ? Don't do that, horrible idea.

---

relate to IGP? Is it the same thing? I've just spent hours wading through the various descriptions of some nForce2 boards, mainly from Asus, Abit, MSI, Gigabyte, and Epox, and each one has a slightly different name/spec about the chipset. What I thought was simply an nForce2 Ultra 400 was suddenly also an SPP+MCP or MCP-T with IGP, or Gigabit MCP...you get the picture. I'd finally settled on a chipset, and now the chipset's gone and gotten all confusing and multi-layered.



So, don't get the IGP board? Any particular reason why? Not that I mind being able to throw one of these identifiers away and thus shorten my list...the MCP/MCP-T part is okay, right, since that has to do with the audio and communications part of it rather than the graphics...



I'm going to tomshardware now. I've got my Excel spreadsheet and I'm ready to go...



*Edited to add:

Just browsed tomshardware and am now completely clear on what these things mean. So, I'm shooting for an nForce2 SPP+MCP-T mainboard ideally. Phew.



The thought that nothing teaches you about computers more than building your own is definitely true...and I haven't even gotten the parts yet!



Thanks Grimmy for the resource (and the info about IGP).

Edited by: Big Dummy at: 7/19/04 9:50 am

[Grimlock72]

BD,



Just to make sure; IGP is the name of the chipset when it has an intergrated graphics-set on board (I see you've found the correctly terms already). As you mention that you want to play games you definitly do NOT want the IGP set.



You would pay extra for what is basicly an Gforce4 400mx, a horrible useless card (which is why I referred to buying an ATI card as nvidia doesn't have proper cards in that price-range in my opinion, no holy wars please :-). Most current games would not run an Gf4 400mx, note the small letters on most game requirements for that; "requires gforce3 or above, except Gforce4 mx series".



I still don't understand WHY nvidia made the Gf4 MX the way they did. Probably the reason I never went into sales



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Big Dummy]

I just recently managed to install a 2nd hard drive (from a laptop) as a slave drive in my PC (I asked about this a few posts back). Everything's been working fine, but I've since gotten the BSOD twice, with the "driver_irql_not_less_or_equal". The two times weren't even close in time in terms of their occurrence, and I even feel like I've received the message at least once before I installed the 2nd hdd. I ignored it for a bit, but I'm kind of getting worried about what might be happening behind the scenes.



I googled the error message and got some info on what the parameters stand for (the memory referenced at the time of the error, the irql at the time, etc.), but the rest makes no sense to me. Where do I go to find out what the memory address pertains to, i.e. which program it was related to, and what program was trying to access that memory address, and what devices are assigned to what irq, etc.? And then, I guess, what do I do with that information?



The exact message was:

driver_irql_not_less_or_equal

Disable or remove new hardware

Disable BIOS memory options like caching or shadowing



Stop: 0x000000D1 (0x02050005, 0x000000c0, 0x00000001, 0x77f835ac)



Is this a potentially damaging error message, or just an annoyance? From my understanding so far, it appears to be multiple programs trying to access the same memory location at the same time...? The only obvious programs running at the time it happened was IE. Both times I was online typing something, a post the first time and an email the second time. Any help would be appreciated, especially if it means saving the life of my pc.

[Grimlock72]

Appearantly a device-driver attempt to write something to either memory or device and failed. Do you get a list with active processen on that Blue Screen ? If so, look at the top of that list.



The most likely cause of this stop message is a faulty device-driver which is misbehaving. Could also be a problem with USB devices, specificly storage devices on USB.



A full re-install should fix such problems, provided you figure out which software you installed last and you skip that one In theory System Restore should be able to roll you back one step as well but I've rarely had good result using SR.



Microsoft's STOP-checklist is here



Might be some usefull information in your Event Log as well, Start -> Run: %SystemRoot%system32eventvwr.msc /s for that one, check the System section.



I don't think such STOP's cause permanent damage, but work in progress is of course lost when the system stops so suddenly. Comparable with shutting it down by simply unplugging it from power



Was this system recently fresh installed ?? (esp. when you added that 2nd HD)



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[darkmagicwillow]

If you're using IE, you need to immediately download Microsoft's latest security patch at Microsoft Security Bulletin MS04-025. It fixes several serious security holes which are actively being exploited, including:



CAN-2004-0549: The WebBrowser ActiveX control, or the Internet Explorer HTML rendering engine (MSHTML), as used in Internet Explorer 6, allows remote attackers to execute arbitrary code in the Local Security context by using the showModalDialog method and modifying the location to execute code such as Javascript, as demonstrated using (1) delayed HTTP redirect operations, and an HTTP response with a Location: header containing a "URL:" prepended to a "ms-its" protocol URI, or (2) modifying the location attribute of the window, as exploited by the Download.ject (aka Scob aka Toofer) using the ADODB.Stream object.



CAN-2004-0566: Integer signedness error in imgbmp.cxx for Windows 2000 allows remote attackers to execute arbitrary code via a BMP image with a large bfOffBits value.



CAN-2003-1048: mshtml.dll for certain versions of Internet Explorer 6.x allows remote attackers to cause a denial of service (application crash) and possibly execute arbitrary code due to a malformed GIF image that triggers a buffer overflow.

--

"Omnia mutantur, nihil interit." -- "Everything changes, but nothing is truly lost."

[Warduke]

Mozilla just released Mozilla 1.7.2, Firefox 0.9.3 and Thunderbird 0.7.3.



These releases include several security fixes.



You can get them here.

---

Firefox: One Browser To Rule Them All.

[Big Dummy]

Ugh. Here's the history:



My pc started rebooting itself, sometimes getting to the desktop and running for a bit, and then suddenly rebooting, other times not even making it past the splash screen or login screen. I'm running XP Pro. So after running a virus scan one of the times that I could get it running for a little longer and ascertaining that I didn't have any viruses, I found that it may be a power/cooling issue. I removed the heatsink unit, cleaned it, and remounted it. Now the thing won't even boot up. I turn it on, the hdd light comes on for a bit but nothing appears on the screen and the light goes off and nothing happens. So, my next line of defense is to see if replacing the power supply would help. It's a 250w supply, and I know now that 350 is the minimum suggested, but when I bought it prefab from Compaq three years ago, that's what it came with. Is it possible that the power supply is suddenly not enough after all this time? I'm running an older Athlon chip.



The other weird symptom to note is that, before this happened, if I were to shut the pc off (using the power button), unplug and replug the power cable, the fan would start up for a few seconds and go off till I actually pushed the power button. Now, following the same steps, when I replug the power cable the entire unit turns on.



Any suggestions or thoughts?

[Grimlock72]

(below are some thoughts, thinks you might want to think about, sorry if it's not neatly streamlined. I'm a bit tired at the moment)



Have you added or replaced ANY hardware after you bought it prefab ? I.e. cdrom, harddisk, videocard.



Do you know exactly what model Athlon you have ? Since you mention it is an older model I assume it is NOT an AthlonXP ? If so, you have a model which is known to require extensive and good cooling (older Athlons did get quite hot).



There are a couple of things that can cause your problem (assuming good OS/software config.); breaking down to either temperature or power. Temperature can be divided in detected and real temperature as cause.



Can you hear the cpu-fan and the power-fan's spinning when you start up ? Are you SURE the cpu-fan is properly connected to the cpu ? (you can place them 180 degrees turned which won't entirely fit due to the turning point of the socket). Also verify that the fans are both actually moving air (feel with your hand in front of 'm).



Once you get your system back running again installing a program called Hmonitor which will let you monitor the temperatures in your system. There is also a freeware program that does that called Motherboard Monitor but I didn't like the way it worked myself (too slow).



Note that some mainboards have a build-in security to stop working if they don't detect a working cpu-fan. Also you're BIOS may have a low max-temp. setting for your cpu-temp and shutdown due to that. Check your BIOS temperature control settings. (Abit boards make a sirene-like noise on the speaker if they do not detect a working cpu fan and won't do anything else, for example)



Can you unplug the hard-disk (both power and ide-cable) and see if it boots up to a screen complaining 'no boot disk' or something like it? That would confirm the idea the your power supply isn't capable of supplying enough power (not the correct word for it, I mean the startup-power-burst thing).





The way you describe your power-on trick would lead me to assume that your current Power Supply Unit is for some reason no longer capable of providing sufficient start-up power (or seriously misbehaving since I've never heard of a PSU turning on just be being replugged, a proper ATX psu should wait for a signal from the mainboard prior to turning on).



Keeping in mind that PSU's aren't that expensive it would be one of the first things I try after having done the no-hard-disk test above.



How many hard-disks do you have, how many cd-rom/dvd players ?



Good luck!



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

Edited by: Grimlock72 at: 8/9/04 1:24 pm

[Big Dummy]

Thanks Grimmy. You're so on the ball.



The only hardware I added was the laptop hdd a month or so ago. I thought that maybe it was an overheating thing (too many devices, not enough cooling), so I removed that as soon as I started having rebooting issues. I followed your suggestions and disconnected all the drives; no display, no message, no beeps. I didn't even get continuous beeping when I removed all my RAM, so I guess it looks like I fried the CPU somehow. I've taken it into a shop to have them look at it. It'll prolly cost too much, but I can't be without a computer for too long.



Thanks for the advice. It'll give me a good means to doublecheck what the pc guy says when he calls me today, so I make sure he's not trying to fleece me.

[Grimlock72]

BD,



Be advised that such a hardware repair should NOT mean that you loose all the data on your harddisk! I've heard too many stories of repair shops claiming that, only a broken harddisk should be cause of data-loss. Make sure you do NOT give them permission to just re-install windows and accept loss of your data if you don't have backups of important data.



It is the easiest way for a repairshop for sure but they can just as easily backup your My Documents folder or other data you can point them to. Just be mindfull about all this, remember data-loss is NOT needed just because some piece of hardware besides the disk failed. (granted it might be a more expensive repair if they have to backup a lot of your data, because it takes time=>money but that's a consideration you alone can make)



Take care!



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Big Dummy]

Well, he didn't try and fleece me on that number. Instead, he had to give me some bad news: either my cpu fried my mobo, or the other way around, but either way they are both completely inoperable. So, I'm sol. Guess I'd better get cracking on building that new system.



Good news is a guy at work is offering to sell me his old P2 system with an NEC 17" flatscreen for $100. It works, and I could just canabalize by old system for the drives and memory and such. I can't tell if it makes sense to set myself back $100 from my home-built system to get something functioning now, or if I should just save it and be patient for a week till I can get the funds together to buy the essential parts for the new one (mobo, chip, and case).



Bad summer for computers. First my gf's laptop, now my desktop.

[Grimlock72]

BD,



You are aware a Pentium-2 is significantly slower than your deceased Athlon cpu, right ?



$100 for a 17" flatscreen is a bargain though, all the rest is bonus



About your hard-disk, you can probably get the data of it just fine (provided you install Windows XP, which on a P2 might be a problem). You can most like NOT boot from that harddisk, since windows XP tends to remember lots of details about what it boots from. (specificly, it stores hardware paths which are probably different besides which it's not recomend to place a boot harddisk in an entirely different system and run from it ;-)



About overheating; the good news is that both current mainboard and cpu's are protected against that now.



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Warduke]

For those who use this anti Spyware tool, there's a new version called Ad-Aware SE, you can read about it here.

---

Firefox: One Browser To Rule Them All.

[Shinnen]

Okay... I'm always tons wary about stuff microsoft release... should i install the SP2 ?? My windows is finally behaving with a slight lag when i try to get my right click options...but would sp2 just screw up everything ??? I've got tons of important (and not so important but took too long to download so it's a priority too) stuff in my computer now and after reading the rumor of the internal ibm memo discouraging clients to update their windows for the moment... i'm just curious.

CheerZ

Shinnen



She's the most amazing girl in the whole world. She's the only girl who makes my heart beat faster and slower at the same time. When I'm not with her, I'm not living. I'm not existing until I can hold her in my arms again.- hence i'm not here now

[Grimlock72]

Depends if you need/use stuff that was severly upgraded in it Also you will likely need to install it before using Windows Update again (since lots of security patches are in sp2).



Thats not to say you have to install it NOW though, unless you need the new wireless network wizard or the microsoft firewall. I assume/hope you have a seperate software firewall already (zonelab, sygate, norton), if not then sp2 might be wise for you.



You can make an image of your system using tools like Ghost, Disk Image or TrueImage (Symantec, Powerquest, Acronis) if you have those.



If you're unsure I would wait a couple of weeks, esp. if you already fully up-to-date with WindowsUpdate at the moment.



I do intend to install it when available myself, but I have a diskimage ready for use in case it damages my windows install .



Grimmy

--
"You hurt Tara," Willow said too calmly. "The last one who tried that was a god. I made her regret it." -- Unexpected Consequences by Lisa of Nine

[Warduke]

Is anyone else having this problem...



I just went to the Windows Update site, and I go this message...

Quote:

---

Windows Update cannot continue because a required service application is disabled. Windows Update requires the following services:



Automatic Updates enables detection, downloading, and installation of critical updates for your computer.

Background Intelligent Transfer Service (BITS) enables faster, restartable downloading of updates.

Event Log logs Windows Update events for troubleshooting. To ensure that these services are enabled:



1. Click Start, and then click Run.

2. Type services.msc and then click OK.

3. In the list of services, right-click the service name, and then click Properties.

4. In the Startup type list, select Automatic.

5. Verify that the service status is started.



If this does not resolve the problem you may request help from one of the following resources.

---

I have always had Windows Update and Background Intelligent Transfer Service turned off. I manually check for updates. I have never used those services.



And I have never had any problems getting updates, until now.

---

Firefox: One Browser To Rule Them All.

[Grimlock72]

Shinnen (and anybody else who wants to postpone installing Service Pack 2 for now); read this link www.microsoft.com/downloa...laylang=en



Note: the above toolkit was developed to accomodate businesses with a LOT of old applications which have specific needs. Usually common endusers don't have such problems, as such they don't really NEED to delay installing SP2, but they can if they want to



Also visit the website at www3.telus.net/dandemar/xpsp2.htm for more info on service pack 2 and a FAQ.



Grimmy

Edited by: Grimlock72 at: 8/13/04 1:16 am